Finding fabric that adds wow to a special occasion outfit

Choosing the right fabric for an outfit is crucial. Deciding on the design for your outfit for a wedding or special occasion is comparatively easy because over time most people learn what they feel comfortable and confident wearing. However, falling in love with a beautiful fabric that is not right for the style will result in disaster.

Jo wearing Elizabeth Bessant couture silk linen dress and jacket

Whenever I meet a new client, I first establish the dress code for the event; whether the garment is a wardrobe addition and needs to tone with other items; the time of year the outfit will be worn; your personal preferences and ideas; your body shape and colouring. All these things are the starting point. Only once the style of your outfit has been decided will we look at fabrics that will create the look you want.

Most of us love silk – it feels so soft and luxurious. But it is not always the best fabric for occasion wear as there are times when a dress calls for more structure and a man-made fabric. In this situation, I always recommend the garment should have a silk lining – especially for summer events – it’s far more comfortable as it is a natural fibre and if you get warm it breathes.

Sketch for Becki’s dress by Elizabeth Bessant

There are so many different types of silk: chiffon and crepes for a floaty look; taffeta or dupion for a shift dress, soft tailored jacket or coat. Then there is silk matka that has a weave like a thick linen, the list goes on.

A favourite of mine, especially for mother of bride outfits, is a silk and linen mix it has the relaxed ease of linen but the silk blend keeps it crease free. But don’t dismiss man-made fibres: viscose in a mix works well as it doesn’t crease; a small percentage of elastane gives a bit of stretch which is especially good if you want a close-fitting dress – and also works well in a wool or silk mix for trousers.

If you see a fabric you like before investing always consult your dressmaker or designer. Fabric shops are happy to give samples, even if there is a small charge it could save an expensive mistake.

I am happy to source fabric for my clients but occasionally I meet someone like Sally who loves fabric and would like to be involved in the shopping process. I took Sally to my favourite stores Misan and Joel & Son Fabrics – the latter is an Aladdin’s cave of upmarket fabric and holds a Royal Warrant from Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth. Photos of the Queen wearing outfits made from their fabulous fabrics are to be seen around their store.

Choosing fabric for Sally’s blouse at Misan Fabrics
Wool tweed at Joel and Son fabrics

Sally has asked me to design her a blouse and a dress for everyday wear and a dress and jacket to wear to her niece’s wedding in August. We chose a Liberty silk print to make a long sleeved pussy bow blouse – this will be part of her work wardrobe but will also take her on to after work drinks parties. A crisp, fresh white and navy print silk/cotton mix was chosen to make an easy to wear summer dress – both fabrics were from Misan. A trip to Joel & Son Fabrics resulted in another great find – a beautiful grey Italian crepe for the dress to wear to the wedding that teams perfectly with the Linton wool tweed in cream, grey and silver that I will use to make her a Chanel style jacket. I’m sure photos of Sally wearing her outfits will appear in future blogs.

I always like finding clients fabric with wow factor. When Jan Meek, adventurer and polar explorer, came to see me she wanted to have a skirt suit made to wear for her public speaking engagements. Surprisingly for a woman who takes on very tough challenges, Jan loves clothes that express her femininity. A candy-floss pink, textured wool created the smart tailored look she was after but with a big dose of girlish charm.

Jan Meek – 4 Guinness World Records and leader of this year’s Polar Maidens Expedition to the South Pole wearing Elizabeth Bessant couture suits

Sometimes bringing a client’s vision to life is not straightforward.

Becki, wearing Elizabeth Bessant couture silk maxi dress

Becki wanted to wear a long floaty dress for her step daughter’s summer garden wedding and after a long and unsuccessful search, a friend of hers recommended me.

The brief was made more complicated because Becki didn’t want any of the colours the bridal party were wearing in her dress.

That meant no neutrals or gold and no navy, pinks or purples. Turquoise and red were options and luckily colours that suited Becki. I found a beautiful Italian Emanual Ungaro chiffon that I layered over red silk crepe.

A soft turquoise chiffon shoulder cape completed a relaxed, floaty look.

For me, as a couture designer, finding the right fabric is something I pride myself on. It helps that I know the staff at shops like Joel & Son Fabrics – recently they went down and hunted in the basement finally finding a fabric that would match my design. Now that is what I call service…