Choosing fabric for a couture outfit

You may think deciding upon the design of your special occasion outfit is job done – but the fabric you choose is vital in realising your dreams. And there are so many fabric choices before you even begin to think of colour or pattern, weave or print.

Your wedding dress, a suit for work or a holiday dress all demand totally different fabrics. You may decide you would like a silk fabric for a luxury feel but that is just the first step, silk comes in a wide range of types. Duchess satin is widely used for traditional wedding dresses, chiffon for a floaty diaphanous dress, Matka has a linen-look texture and would make a beautifully tailored lightweight suit, the list goes on. So it’s important you talk to your designer before making a fabric choice and take their opinion into account to avoid making an expensive mistake!

Here is my at-a-glance fabric guide:

Satin
• Woven fabric with a very specific weave
• Sleek and glossy, usually with a matt back but can be double sided
• Highly lustrous
• Made from silk, cotton, wool or synthetics

Chiffon
• Made from loose and tightly twisted yarns
• Soft and supple
• Drapes and gathers well
• Fine and transparent
• Made from silk or polyester

Crepe
• Grainy textured surface
• Lightweight, matt finish
• Graceful drape
• Flexible with a two way stretch
• Made from silk, wool or synthetics – sometimes a mix

Organza
• Crisp and dry to handle with a wiry feel
• Stiff and transparent with fine texture
• Thin and lightweight
• Slight sheen
• Made from silk or synthetics

Georgette
• Constructed from highly twisted yarns, tight weave
• Crinkly crepe like texture, feels slightly rough and dry
• A bouncy flowing drape
• Strong so wears well
• Made from silk or polyester

Velvet
• Strong beautiful sheen
• Soft elegant drape
• Shimmering pile surface
• Soft to touch
• Made from silk, cotton or synthetics

Wool
• Warmth, excellent insulating properties
• Breathable – its fibres trap heat in winter, let air circulate in summer
• Strong, durable, long lasting
• Wide range of weights, textures and types

Cotton
• Comfortable and soft
• Good absorbency
• Strong
• Drapes well
• Colourfast and machine washable

These fabrics come in so many shades so it is a big decision when having a couture garment made.

When you come to see me for a consultation, firstly I establish the feel of the event, outfit and your preferences. I then come up with a design and suggest fabric options and different looks that can be achieved. I have many sample books of assorted fabrics to choose from however if nothing fits the bill I will source fabric samples from various companies and stores.

If you are looking for something unusual and in particular a pattern I will take you on a trip to Joel and Son fabrics in Edgware. This is the largest couture fabric emporium in this country. Every type of fabric is available and they have wonderful designer collections by Valentino, Chanel, Emanuel Ungaro and others. If you venture to Joel’s on your own they have a team of very knowledgeable salespeople.

It’s important to talk to your designer about your budget before choosing fabric for an outfit especially if you go to Joel’s because the range is huge from £20 to Limited edition designer fabrics costing in the thousands for a metre. But whatever your budget, there will be a fabric that is right for your design and when that perfect outfit comes together you will feel on top of the world!