A dress for Issy, my beautiful model

Having a couture dress made for you at any age is very special but for Issy it was a real treat to experience couture in her early twenties. I have known Issy since she was small. She is now grown into a lovely young woman, and she modelled my last wedding dress collection.

Fitting the slip for Issy’s chiffon dress – Elizabeth Bessant couture

Issy loves design and textiles so when I showed her a beautiful silk chiffon print in shades of blues and purples she was instantly inspired. She said it would be perfect for a dress to wear to her cousin’s country house summer wedding. The lightness of the fabric was ideal for creating a floaty silhouette perfect for a warm August day in the beautiful Yorkshire countryside.

We agreed the fabric needed to influence the style and that a fitted short under slip would stop the dress being see-through but allow the ankle-length chiffon to float. First, I created a pattern for the fitted under slip that the chiffon would be attached to. After a calico toile fitting the slip was made up in an aqua stretch satin with built in cups so Issy wouldn’t have to worry about bra straps – and I would have more freedom with what I could do with the chiffon.

From that point on there was no pattern – just inspiration. I wrapped and draped Issy in the chiffon until I achieved a shape we both liked. This was attached to the under slip with pins. Then I removed the dress carefully from her and placed it on a stand so my team could painstakingly replace all those pins with tiny hand stitches.

Stitching Issy’s chiffon dress – Elizabeth Bessant couture

This is not how I usually work but having such freedom of expression bought out the best in the fabric.

Also I knew Issy had total confidence that I would create her dream dress. I allowed the chiffon to dictate the design and achieved a wonderful, soft, romantic look for Issy.

For dancing, I attached two tiny thread loops either side on the hem and two small silk covered buttons at the sides of her dress hidden by the ruche fabric around her bust.

This allowed her to elegantly hook her skirt out of harm’s way as she danced. Issy loved wearing her dress and will treasure both the gown and her first experience of couture.

Sewing chiffon in place on the stand – Elizabeth Bessant couture

Fitting Issy’s chiffon dress – Elizabeth Bessant couture

‘I felt fabulous. The dress was very comfortable to wear and at the same time it was so elegant. It was cut really beautifully and flowed as I walked. Plus the side fastening details worked so well for dancing and it suited the dress up as well as down. Thank you Liz…’ Issy.