Couture Fashion Week

It is that time of year when the world’s wealthiest consumers of high fashion and top journalists gather in Paris for Couture Fashion Week. These collections will be available to commission for Autumn/Winter 2017 – 2018… if you can afford them. There are very few global clients who can afford to invest in haute couture with price tags of £250,000 for a hand embroidered dress – but the eyes of the world will be on these exquisite outfits.

But something has changed this time – the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture who preside over Couture Fashion Week are relaxing their strict rules and letting a number of established ready-to-wear names appear including Rodarte and Proenza Schouler, who have been elected as guest members.

Springtime hand cut lace gown by Elizabeth Bessant couture

As a designer who has made a stand against mass-produced, factory-made collections to embrace all the hand skills and crafts that make couture so special, I feel this is not a positive step. There are plenty of shows for ready-to-wear, and it’s important Couture Fashion Week should remain a show-case for designers who work hard to keep a dying art going. The number of couture houses has decreased since 1945 when the Syndicale first introduced strict guidelines on who should be granted the title Haute Couture. At that time 100 houses bore the label, today it is only 15 historic houses such as Chanel and Christian Dior, along with contemporary houses like Gianbattista Valli.

Obviously the Syndicale are looking at ways to keep the Couture Fashion Week (now only three days), going and have picked ready-to-wear companies who work with independent ateliers and embrace crafts in their designs. However if the Syndicale rewrote their strict guidelines they would be able to accredit more couture houses. I agree members should have an in-house atelier where garments are custom-fitted to clients but the rule that they have to employ a team of 20 people is prohibitive.

My ultimate dream would be to show at Couture Fashion Week – and whether I ever see my dream come true or not, I remain dedicated to the ideals of hand-made couture. And seeing the look of delight on my clients faces when they wear my clothes, I know they feel that special magic too…